How to Choose the Right Watch for Your Outfit

Hello, friends.

Today’s topic was suggested to me by my beautiful and amazing wife, my number one fan and supporter. She’s also an excellent photographer, and many of the incredible images on the blog were captured by her. (Don’t forget, if you want to see yourself up here, leave a suggestion in the comments section below!)

Before we get into the article, a bit of backstory is in order.

I have a genuine love for watches, and, as with my love for many things, it stems from my first experience in which I really researched them before making my purchase.

I was told that I would be receiving a watch as an engagement present. The budget was set, and it was up to me to determine which watch I would buy.

I’m not one to waste a rare opportunity (people don’t buy you expensive gifts that often!), so I set out to learn as much about wristwatches as I could. I spent hours scouring the web, watching YouTube videos, and learning the ins and outs of watchmaking, the watchmakers, and the various types of watches on the market.

This was the first time I learned about mechanical watches, which are run by mechanical movements instead of the mass-market watches powered by quartz batteries. I was introduced to many brands that I had never heard of before, ones that I can’t believe I was oblivious to. I delved more and more, soaking up every bit of information, every obscure detail that I could.

That day was well over three years ago, but even now, long after the purchase was made, I still hold a strong affinity for watches, and I continue to learn more about them every day.

There are many different watches out there, from dress watches to divers, field watches, racing watches, and more, all from a massive variety of watchmakers, ranging from budget-friendly to prices that any sane person would balk at.

However, not every watch is suited for every outfit. While some watches are very versatile and can work well with outfits ranging from casual to formal, others are more specialized and work best with particular looks.

Even if a watch matches your outfit well in terms of style and formality, there are still subtle details you should look for that can enhance your overall look and make you truly stand out, and that is what we’ll be discussing today.

Rule 1: Match the formality of your watch to your outfit

The first and most important rule is always to ensure that your watch and outfit aren’t incongruous with each other, and the easiest way to do that is by considering your outfit as a whole before choosing your watch.

There are several aspects of a watch that determine how formal it is:

  1. The materials. A watch that has a leather strap is more formal than one with a steel bracelet, which, in turn, is more formal than a canvas strap. Precious metals, like white and rose gold, are more formal than rubber or titanium.

  2. The dial. The simpler the dial, the more formal it is. A dial that only has line indicators by the hours, instead of Roman or Arabic numerals, is more formal. The amount of markers is important as well: Many dress watches only have markers by the hours and none by the minutes. (It goes without saying that a digital watch is far more casual.)

  3. The number of complications. In layman’s terms, a complication is anything on the watch that does something other than strictly tell the time, such as a day or date window, a chronograph, or a moon phase. The more complications a watch has, the more casual it becomes. Many dress watches even forgo the seconds hand and only have hands for the hours and minutes.

  4. The size. Dress watches usually maintain a slim profile and small diameter to ensure that they can effortlessly slip beneath a shirt cuff. More casual watches, such as Flieger (pilot) and dive watches, are larger, which is necessary due to their intended function. A watch is no good to a diver 100 meters down if he can’t read the dial!

For example, if you’re attending a black tie function, where you’ll be wearing a tuxedo, the only acceptable option is a dress watch with a leather strap, simple dial, and trim profile. Anything else would look strange with the ensemble.

In the picture below, I’m wearing a navy v-neck sweater and a dress shirt, so a dressier watch is in order.

Navy v-neck sweater from Uniqlo, blue gingham shirt from Spier & Mackay, and SARB065 from Seiko

Navy v-neck sweater from Uniqlo, blue gingham shirt from Spier & Mackay, and SARB065 from Seiko

Notice that the watch isn’t entirely formal, though. There is a date window, markers for the minutes and sub-seconds, and a thicker case diameter, all of which make it better suited for a wide variety of outfits.

On the other hand, if you’re wearing jeans and a t-shirt, a diver or field watch with a metal or canvas strap and multiple complications is perfectly acceptable.

There are numerous watches of varying formality levels, so always remember to look at the materials, dial, complications, and size before choosing one for your outfit.

Additionally, you should consider the function. Going to a wedding? A dress watch is your best bet. On your way to a hike? Choose something sturdy that can stand up to possible dings and scratches. Many people even have dedicated “beater” watches that they wear when engaging in physical activity or anything else where a more delicate watch would be damaged.

This is the only fundamental “rule;” the following pointers are merely suggestions to keep in mind to create a cohesive outfit. Although I call them rules, please keep in mind that you certainly don’t need to adhere to them.

Rule 2: Match your leathers

The above only applies if you’re wearing a watch with a leather strap, and, as I mentioned before, it isn’t a rule that you necessarily need to keep.

However, an excellent way to create cohesion in your outfit is by ensuring that the leather color of your belt, shoes, and watch strap is the same. For example, if you’re wearing a watch with a black leather strap, choose a black belt and shoes, as in the picture below.

Black cap toe oxfords, black belt, and Seiko SARB065

Black cap toe oxfords, black belt, and Seiko SARB065

The same goes for brown. If you’re wearing a watch with a brown strap, choose brown shoes and a belt as well.

This is where the impracticality of this “rule” comes into play. With black, it’s easy; there’s only one shade. However, when it comes to brown, there are dozens of variations, and it would be ludicrous for anyone to have shoes, belts, and watch straps for every possible shade. If you have a watch with a brown strap, it’s not necessary for you to find shoes and a belt in the exact same shade - getting close is more than good enough!

Rule 3: Match your metals

This rule is perhaps the most flexible of the three. The theory is that you can create harmony in your outfit by ensuring that all the metal accents are the same type/color. For example, if your watch case is made of stainless steel, your wedding band, other rings, cufflinks, belt buckle, and shoe buckles (if applicable) should all have the same appearance.

White gold wedding band, belt with stainless steel buckle, stainless steel and mother of pearl cufflinks, and Seiko SARB065

White gold wedding band, belt with stainless steel buckle, stainless steel and mother of pearl cufflinks, and Seiko SARB065

However, I (and many other people) only have one wedding band. I’m fortunate that the watch I wear most often has a stainless steel case, and my wedding band, which is white gold, has the same appearance. Additionally, my belt buckle and the buckles on my shoes are also made of stainless steel, so when I wear them all together, it creates a very pleasing look.

Were I to purchase a watch with say, a rose gold case, I wouldn’t go out and buy a new wedding band, belt, and shoes, for I find the notion ludicrous. If you happen to have the same metals in your collection, then you should certainly wear them together, but don’t stress it.

A note about smartwatches

I am not oblivious to the fact that the most popular watches in the world are smartwatches. They certainly have their place and can be used for various tasks that more traditional watches can’t offer.

However, I would strongly advise everyone to purchase at least one mechanical watch for themselves. Traditional watches are more appropriate and look better with a wide variety of outfits, whereas smartwatches are firmly stuck in the casual side of the spectrum. Wearing a smartwatch with a suit looks downright odd, and the clash between modern technology and traditional tailoring can throw off your whole look.

Additionally, having one on your wrist is a feeling that no smartwatch can ever hope to replicate, and I enjoy knowing that my watch won’t be obsolete once Apple rolls out next year’s new model.

Conclusion

Now that you know these three rules (remember, only one of them is really a “rule!”), I hope that you’ll be confident when you’re next assembling an outfit.

There are many different watches out there, far beyond the scope of this article, but if there is interest, I would be more than happy to provide a breakdown of the major watch categories, speak about my favorite watchmakers, and more.

If you have a question about a certain watch that you don’t know how to style, feel free to ask, and as always, if you have any questions or suggestions for future blog posts, please leave them in the comments below!

Farewell for now.

 
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Naftali Ostreicher

Naftali is a menswear and style enthusiast who has been interested in classically inspired menswear for nearly a decade. His favorite thing about style is the personal freedom it gives each person - it’s up to the individual to define what style means for themselves. You can always reach him at [email protected] if you have any menswear-related questions or just want to chat!

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