The Top 100 Men’s Shoe Brands
With the abundance of men’s shoe brands on the market today, you’d logically assume that buying a new pair of shoes would be easier than ever. However, I often find that the opposite is true. With so many options to choose from, people are often paralyzed when it comes time to purchase and end up defaulting to the brands they know and are comfortable with. Having so many options also makes it difficult to sift through the many subpar brands to find something that is of actual quality.
There has been a renaissance of sorts in the last two decades in fine men’s shoemaking - in addition to the usual mall brand and high fashion stalwarts - and the market is more crowded than ever. With the price of a pair of shoes ranging from under $100 to well over $1,000 and many more in between, making the right choice can often feel like an effort in futility.
In an attempt to combat this issue, I’ve set out to create the most comprehensive list of men’s shoe brands possible, with many suggested brands in each price category. I do have personal experiences with many of these brands, but for those with which I don’t, I’ll be depending on user reviews as well as the opinions and in-depth reviews of respected menswear personalities and shoe cobblers.
To not muddy the list up too much, the focus will be on brands that either primarily focus on men’s dress shoes and boots or have a decent selection to choose from. Therefore, pereniall footwear giants, such as Nike and Adidas, will be excluded, as they focus almost exclusively on sneakers.
Each company will be placed in one of four price categories - one dollar sign signifies brands that are generally under $150, two dollar signs are for shoes between $150 and $500, three dollar signs are for those between $500 and $1000, and four dollar signs are for shoes $1,000 and higher. I will also be excluding bespoke shoemakers, as those are less shoe brands than they are individual pieces of art, and the going price is often over $4,000.
One final note before we begin: I’ve deliberately titled this article as the “top” brands and not the “best,” as best is a subjective term. A shoe can be made of the highest-quality leather, painstakingly stitched together by a master artisan, but for someone who has a $200 budget for shoes, none of that really matters. Alternatively, if someone is only interested in shoes from luxury fashion houses, then no array of boutique shoe brands that offer a better price-to-quality ratio will sway them. This list is sorted alphabetically, not in terms of quality.
Without further ado, let’s jump into the top 100 men’s dress shoe brands.
1. Ace Marks - $$
Ace Marks is a brand that was first introduced to me by the well-regarded menswear YouTube channel, Gentleman’s Gazette. Their shoes start in the high $100s for moccasins, with many of their more classic styles, such as double monks and oxfords, hovering around the $300 range. These shoes offer great value for the price, with elegant lasts (industry lingo for the shape of the shoe) and high-quality leathers, all assembled at their factory in Italy. Their shoes are made with a blake stitch, which also means they can be resoled several times.
You can check out my full review of the Ace Marks double monk straps to get a better understanding of the pros and cons of this fantastic brand.
Ace Marks Double Monk Straps in Diablo (This Colorway in the Double Monk Line is Discontinued)
2. Alberto Fasciani - $$$
Alberto Fasciani is best known for its riding boots, and that influence is evident throughout the rest of their collection. The lasts are a lot chunkier than those you’d typically expect of an Italian brand, with wide rounded toe boxes and a shorter and stouter length. Their shoes are all either Goodyear welted or blake stitched, which makes sense given their $500 - $700 price point. These shoes are very distinct and not for everyone, but Alberto Fasciani knows their customer.
3. Alden - $$$
An American icon best known for shell cordovan shoes, Alden has been manufacturing fine men’s footwear in the US since 1884. In addition to their cordovan offerings, they have many calf leather options, all Goodyear welted. Their shoes and boots have a very distinct American look similar to Allen Edmonds - it’s a lot closer to English shoemaking, with more conservative, rounded lasts, than Italian or Spanish but with a unique character all its own.
At over $600, it’s a bit of a hard sell, especially considering what their competitors are doing at lower price points. They’re definitely worth it when they go on sale, and if you want to specifically purchase from an American-made brand, Alden is the company for you.
4. Aldo - $
Aldo is one of those brands that I feel almost all men, including myself, have experienced, as it’s a staple of malls across the US. The lasts are nice enough, though obviously, you’re not getting a ton of quality with shoes at this price. I’ve owned many pairs of Aldo shoes in my life, and they would typically last me around a year before they needed to be thrown out. The leather quality is decent as well, though since the shoes use a cemented construction, they usually can’t be resoled.
With shoes ranging from $75 to $150 for the nicer models, it’s a great option for those who don’t have a massive budget for shoes.
Black Cap Toe Oxfords by Aldo
5. Alfred Sargent - $$$
As you’ll soon see, England is one of the epicenters of fine men’s shoemaking, and Alfred Sargent is the first English shoemaker on this list. With a history dating back to 1899, Alfred Sargent offers a wide array of classic men’s shoe styles, including oxfords, derbies, loafers, and boots, all Goodyear welted with narrower waists than a typical English shoe, which gives them an elegant look.
There’s a fair amount of handwork that goes into each shoe, justifying their approximately $650 price point.
6. Allen Edmonds - $$
Allen Edmonds is probably the name most American men think of when they envision a high-quality shoe. Founded in the US way back in 1922, it’s one of the only companies that still does shoe production in the United States today. Unfortunately, their quality has been slipping according to many in the last 10-20 years. While they still offer a good value, at around $400 a pair, they’ve increasingly become a harder sell to make. If you can snag a pair of shoes during their factory seconds sale, where shoes with very minor defects are sold at massive discounts, they’re a steal.
7. Altan Bottier - $$$
The first French brand on this list, Altan’s shoes demonstrate Parisian shoemaking and creativity at their best. In addition to the typically French last, characterized by its elongated and chiseled look, Altan also offers beautiful patinas on calfskin, suede, and patent leather shoes, which is not something you see often. There’s a huge variety of colors to choose from, from your standard browns and blacks to more daring colors, like various shades of red, blue, and even green.
Their shoes are mostly blake stitched to keep that sleek French silhouette and start at around $650.
8. Amberjack - $$
The self-proclaimed “most comfortable dress shoes in the world,” Amberjack’s offerings certainly won’t win the “best looks” category. However, if comfort is what you need, these shoes offer a more stylish alternative to sneakers while still remaining appropriate in some semi-formal settings, like weddings with more relaxed dress codes.
Their $180 price isn’t bad either, especially considering that they’re made in Portugal, which has a long history of shoemaking. A stitched or welted construction would be welcome, but it’s difficult to attain with the synthetic outsoles their shoes use.
9. Antonio Meccariello - $$$
Antonio Meccariello is a superb shoemaker based out of Napoli, Italy, where all their shoes are made. They’re quintessentially Italian but with a distinct and daring look that is unique to the brand. Their ready-to-wear shoes are all either Goodyear or handwelted and include beautiful sartorial details such as beveled waists and are offered in a huge array of breathtaking colors and patinas that other brands can’t hope to compete with. Starting at around $600 and going considerably above that, these shoes are certainly not cheap, but the quality they offer is unquestionable.
10. Asos - $
With a wide range of styles from classic oxfords and loafers to avant-garde boots, Asos has something for everyone. The material choice here is questionable - synthetic materials are present in every element of the shoe, and the leather quality is subpar at best. However, most styles come in at $40 - $80, which is significantly lower than even most mall brand shoes.
If you’re looking for shoes that you only plan on wearing once or if budget is your main concern, give Asos a try.
11. Astorflex - $$
Best known for their desert boots, Astorflex is a made-in-Italy brand that focuses on the little details. Their selection isn’t enormous - in addition to the aforementioned desert boots, they also offer Chelsea boots and loafers - but each style is crafted with intention. They have two main lasts, one that adheres more closely to the Italian style, with a longer, more tapered look, and one that’s closer to country wear, with a much rounder shape.
The uppers are hand-stitched and they use vegetable-tanned leather for the upper and insole, which justifies their $200 price point. However, blake stitched construction would usually be expected at this price point, and Astorflex doesn’t offer that.
12. Balenciaga - $$$$
Balenciaga’s style is polarizing. There’s no middle ground; you either love it or you despise it. I’m definitely in the latter camp, but many people clamor for Balenciaga’s one-of-a-kind styles. Nothing they offer could be described as even remotely classic - their Space Shoe would be more at home on an alien planet than Earth (they’re made entirely out of rubber and will set you back $875), and their boots and derbies are reminiscent of the shoes worn by everyone’s favorite red-capped Italian plumber.
These shoes are not for the faint of heart, both in terms of styling and the prices they command. Most of their models retail between $1100 and $1800.
13. Bally - $$$$
The only Swiss brand on this list, Bally handcrafts all of their shoes at their factory in Switzerland. I’d say their lasts are most similar to the Italian style - they do share a border, after all - with an elongated shape and narrow, rounded toe box. The heels are quite chunky though, unlike most Italian shoe brands that have a lower and sleeker profile. This is most likely due to the Goodyear welted construction they use, which is also uncommon in Italian shoes.
However, that made-in-Switzerland pedigree comes at a cost - these shoes retail for around $1200.
14. Beckett Simonon - $$
When you first start getting into quality shoes, Beckett Simonon is a brand that you’ll encounter fast and often. They’ve made a great name for themselves on the web, and tons of people adore their shoes. Most models start at around $220, which is a great price for shoes that are blake stitched, use full-grain leather, and are made to order in their factory in Colombia. The only real downside is that the average delivery time is nearly two months since production is only started when you put in your order. I also find that their lasts are a bit clunky, but that’s a matter of personal opinion.
15. Belgian Shoes - $$$
True to their name, Belgian Shoes focuses exclusively on Belgian-style loafers, with their almond-shaped toes and distinctive bows. They come in four main styles and feature a variety of colors and patterns. Each pair is sewn by hand, and they’re well-regarded for their comfort.
These shoes are not for everyone, especially not with their $600+ price tag, but the many people who own them swear by them.
16. Blake McKay - $
For a company partially named after Lyman Blake, the creator of the blake stitch, you’d expect them to use blake stitching in their shoes. However, that’s not the case with Blake McKay, which uses cemented construction - the stitching you see on their shoes is actually injection molded and entirely decorative. The lasts are slightly more refined than your average mall brand, but there’s not much else that distinguishes them. This direct-to-consumer brand’s shoes are priced around $150, but I’d highly recommend waiting for a sale before you pick them up.
17. Blundstone - $$
Blundstones are workhorses. I owned a pair of Blundstone chelsea boots for over five years and wore the hell out of them, yet they held up admirably. These boots are heavily workwear-inspired, with chunky soles and rather square lasts, so if you’re looking for dressier boots, these aren’t for you. These are definitely more of your jeans and t-shirt boots than they are suit and tie boots.
Their boots start at $225, which is quite a bit more than I paid for my first pair. I think this price is fair, yet there are some drawbacks, such as their entry-level line being made with a cemented construction when many of their competitors offer Goodyear welted boots at the same or cheaper prices. If you want Goodyear welted boots from Blundstone, you’ll have to shell out well over $400 for their Heritage line. Their boots also run small, so make sure to size up from your usual boot size or try them on in person before you purchase!
18. Bontoni - $$$$
There are many things that make Bontoni a singularly impressive brand - their shoes are made entirely by hand, for one, by Italian master artisans with decades of experience. They use the finest materials, of course, and have the obvious hallmarks of the highest-end shoes, such as beveled waists and fully stacked leather heels.
What sets them apart is the process they use for coloring their shoes. Unlike most other brands, that use pre-dyed leather, Bontoni uses leathers in their undyed raw state and then painstakingly paints each pair by hand, poring over every minute detail to ensure your shoes are truly one of a kind.
At $1200, they are among the most expensive ready-to-wear shoes you can buy, but the quality and attention to detail make them well worth it, especially considering that each pair of shoes comes with lasted shoe trees, which typically cost $200 - $300.
19. Bottega Veneta - $$$$
A luxury fashion house based out of Milan, Bottega Veneta is best known for their woven leather handbags, and that style is carried over in some of their shoe styles. Their lasts are definitely not in line with traditional Italian shoemaking - this is a luxury fashion brand through and through. The designs are either extremely pointy or chunky, with no in-between.
The prices are to match. Most models cost between $1300 and $1800, and the woven styles cost over $4000. There’s nothing special about the materials or construction, but as with all fashion houses, you’re paying for the name.
20. Bruno Magli - $$
Bruno Magli is another Italian brand, but their lasts are not quite as refined as some of their Italian brethren. There’s something almost mall-brand-esque about some of their lasts, which is strange considering that they’re made in Italy and start at $300. You are definitely receiving higher quality leathers than you would with a mall brand, but only their $400 higher-end models use a blake stitch construction - their entry-level models are cemented, which is really not acceptable at their price point.
21. Carlos Santos - $$
Based out of Portugal, which has a rich history of shoemaking, Carlos Santos offers some of the best shoes you can buy in the $400 range. As is typical of most shoes made in the southern regions of Europe, the lasts are quite elongated and dashing and make a powerful statement. Most of their shoes use a Goodyear welt, but they offer some blake stitch and handwelted options as well.
22. Carmina - $$$
Another brand you may be familiar with if you’ve done some searches on high-quality men’s shoes is Carmina. Founded and based on the island of Mallorca in Spain, another bastion of shoemaking, Carmina has been offering fantastic shoes for over two decades. Though they do have some models at $400, most of their shoes are priced above $500, though they still offer great value at that price point.
The Spanish style of shoemaking is more fashion-forward than the conservative shoes made in the US and England, but they’re not quite as daring as those made in Italy or France. If you’re looking for Goodyear welted shoes made with fantastic leathers and superb construction methods, Carmina is the brand for you.
23. Caulaincourt - $$
Founded by Alexis Lafont in 2008, Caulaincourt is a French brand that offers the full gamut of men’s shoes, from classics like oxfords and derbies to more unique options, like Jodphur and button boots. They use a variety of construction methods (all either stitched or welted) and manufacture in Spain, France, England, and Italy, not limiting themselves to one region. Rather, they attempt to seek out the best artisans for each category of shoe.
Most of their shoes range between $300 and $500, which is a fantastic price for the quality you’re getting, and they have one of the most robust made-to-order programs on the market.
24. Cheaney - $$
Purchased by members of the famed Church family in 2009, the Joseph Cheaney brand was revitalized and brought back to its former glory. The shoes they offer are quintessentially English, all Goodyear welted, with conservative yet refined lasts. They have several collections, including their City line, with shoes starting at $450, and their Country line, which features various boots and derbies with thick soles and heavy broguing, perfect for those sojourns in the countryside.
25. Church’s - $$$$
Speaking of iconic English shoe brands, the next one we come to is Church’s, with a rich history spanning over 150 years. While they used to be known as one of the best values in men’s footwear, they were purchased by the Prada Group in 1999, and their prices reflect that - a simple captoe oxford will set you back nearly $1300. Prada’s influence is also evident in their style. They offer a range of classic English shoes, but they also have more fashion-forward options that detract from the classic English styling.
Don’t get me wrong, these are still good shoes - they all use Goodyear welted construction, have uniform stitching, and nice leather - but they’re priced a lot more like a high fashion luxury brand than a boutique artisan brand, and the price doesn't really match up with the quality you receive.
26. Clarks - $
Thanks to their invention of the desert boot (which are really just chukka boots with a crepe sole), Clark’s has established itself as another footwear icon. In addition to their most recognizable offering, they also have a decent selection of derbies, loafers, and derby boots, all priced at or under $150. Their desert boots offer a good value - for $150 you can own one of the most iconic shoes on the market - but there’s nothing special about the rest of their lineup.
27. CNES - $$
Another contender for the best entry-level shoe brand is CNES, a Singaporean company that manufactures their shoes in Vietnam. They offer the full gamut of shoes, everything from a wide variety of loafers to oxfords, derbies, boots, and more. Their last selection is also quite extensive, with both chiseled and elongated and classic styles offered.
Their entry level-shoes, which are blake stitched, come in at under $150, which is really incredible for shoes of this caliber. They also offer many Goodyear welted shoes at the $250 mark, and fully handwelted offerings at around $400. Though they may be a relatively obscure brand, don’t sleep on them if you want great shoes at a fantastic price.
28. Cobbler Union - $$
Cobbler Union is an American brand that makes their shoes in Spain, and they offer some of the best value in the $400 - $500 range. All their shoes are Goodyear welted and made with leather from some of the finest tanneries in the world. They offer other small but impressive details, such as stacked leather heels and beveled waists, which are features of much more expensive shoes. The shoes’ insole is also unique, with a quilted footbed which you rarely see.
I find their two-eyelet derby model to be particularly stunning, with its beautiful, elongated last.
29. Cole Haan - $
Ahh, Cole Haan. Though I (like many other enthusiasts) used to scoff at the idea of buying Cole Haan shoes over another brand and used it as the prime example of mass-produced, poorly constructed shoes, I’ve actually purchased a pair recently, and they’re not as terrible as they’re made out to be.
Are they mass-produced and use cemented construction? Definitely. Are they, quite frankly, ugly? While that’s subjective, I definitely wouldn’t call them stylish. However, when I needed to attend a work conference where I knew I would be standing on my feet for a minimum of 10 hours a day, Cole Haan was the first brand I turned to, as they were one of the only ones that had presentable shoes that wouldn’t wreak havoc on my feet.
Most of their shoes are priced in the $100 - $150 dollar range, though I’d always recommend buying these shoes on sale because they’re definitely not worth $150. I find that they run small, so use your sneaker size instead of your regular shoe size when purchasing them. I also found that the insole was quite uncomfortable and replaced it almost immediately.
30. Corthay - $$$$
Perhaps the epitome of French shoemaking, Corthay is one of the only brands that actually makes their shoes in France instead of going elsewhere for their manufacturing. Their most famous model is the often copied but never replicated Arca, a two-eyelet derby that is a joy to behold. They also offer oxfords, monkstraps, boots, and loafers, all with their signature elongated lasts and incredibly refined chiseled toes. Their color palette is equally as impressive, with beautiful patinas from black and brown to green, blue, and even purple for the most daring.
At over $2000 - exquisite materials and French manufacturing add up to a lot - not many can afford to “step in” to the world of Corthay, but those who do never want to step out.
31. Crockett & Jones - $$$
A quintessentially British shoemaker, Crockett & Jones has been making incredible men’s shoes in Northampton, England for well over a century. Retailing for roughly $650 in their main line, all their shoes are Goodyear welted and come in various lasts, though most of them conform to the typical English style, meaning they’re more conservative.
Their prices have been climbing ever higher as of late, and they’ll need to continue to distinguish themselves if they hope to keep competing with upstart brands that offer comparable quality but at more competitive price points.
32. Dr. Martens - $$
Dr. Martens, also known as Doc Martens, is an icon, with their wildly popular 1460 model boots adopted by nearly every alternative movement as well as mainstream audiences. The contrast yellow stitching and pull loops are instantly recognizable. They offer derbies, loafers, and Chelsea boots in addition to their derby boots, but they’re all heavily inspired and styled after their first iconic model, the 1460, with its chunky last and thick sole.
They retail at around $170 - $280 for their made-in-England models - which is a great price for Goodyear welted shoes.
33. Duke + Dexter - $$
Though they’re based out of and made in England, Duke + Dexter prides itself on not being just another English shoemaker. They still have some of the hallmarks of fine English shoes - they use top-quality leather and suede and are crafted by hand - but the similarities end there. Duke + Dexter believes in looking to the future instead of pulling from traditions of the past. Their shoes are quite fashion-forward, with intricate and flashy designs, but don’t confuse this with fast fashion. All their shoes are made in limited runs to reduce waste.
They’re priced between $200 and $300, which is what you’d expect given their handmade in England nature (some of their models are handmade in Portugal or Italy), but you’d typically expect at least blake stitched construction at this price point. Nevertheless, these are still a good option for those who value sustainability.
34. Ed Meier - $$$
Based out of Munich, Germany, Ed Meier’s claim to fame is their asymmetrical last design, which is anatomically better for your foot. Chelseas, oxfords, derbies, loafers, and more are all available, priced between $500 and $1000. They’re all Goodyear welted, and their lasts are quite elegant. I’d personally stick to their entry-level shoes, as there are many others at the $1000 mark that appeal to me more stylistically.
35. Edward Green - $$$$
Another industry-leading brand from Northampton, England is Edward Green, which epitomizes English shoemaking but with a very refined twist. They offer the full gamut of classic shoes, from penny and tassel loafers to split toe bluchers and oxfords. They also have a fantastic selection of boots, including their ever-popular Galway model. For over $1300, you’d expect all the bells and whistles, and these shoes deliver, with the finest selection of materials, Goodyear welted construction, and oak bark tanned leather soles.
36. Enzo Bonafe - $$$
Enzo Bonafe is an incredible brand based out of Bologna, Italy. Its founder and namesake, 80+-year-old Enzo Bonafe, still leads the shop today and has since its founding in 1963. They offer beautiful handmade shoes with an Italian flair that are all either welted or blake stitched in a vast array of colors and unique styles, such as button boots, at a competitive price point of $500 - $600.
The only major drawback is that they don’t sell direct to consumer, so you’ll have to find another online retailer that carries them, and the selection is quite small.
37. Ferragamo - $$$$
A staple of high-fashion brands, Ferragamo’s men’s shoes do tend to be quite fashion-forward and avant-garde, though they have some classic shoes as well, such as horsebit loafers, oxfords, and a selection of boots. The average price for their shoes is around $1200, which is very steep, especially considering that you could pay half the price for some of the other brands on this list and get twice the quality.
It’s worth noting that most of their shoes are either blake stitched or cemented, and the lasts are too square and clunky for my personal taste. However, as with all luxury fashion brands, it’s not the quality you’re paying for but rather the name.
38. Florsheim - $
The first pair of dress shoes I (and likely many others) owned was from Florsheim - they’re just one of those brands that seemed to be everywhere in the early 2000s. An American company with over 120 years of history, their quality took a major dip in the late 1990s when manufacturing moved overseas. However, quality may not matter to you when you can get a pair of shoes for $50. They offer all the classics, and some of their lasts are pretty nice for a mall-brand shoe.
For around $180, you can purchase from their Imperial line, which is made in Italy, but there are other brands at that price point that are leagues ahead in terms of quality.
39. Frye - $$
Founded way back in 1860s Massachussets, Frye mainly focuses on boots, but they have a small selection of dress shoes as well. Their boot line is quite extensive, from Chelseas and chukkas to jodhpurs and hiking boots. The last style is distinctly American - think Allen Edmonds in terms of styling - but almost none of their shoes are still made in the US. Most of their products, which range between $280 and $380, are made in China, though they do have a made-in-the-USA line that retails at $500.
However, just because something is made in China doesn’t mean the quality is subpar. Meermin makes some of the best value stuff on the market, and all their shoes are made there. You are receiving Goodyear welted construction and quality leather so the prices they charge, even with the low cost of overseas labor, are not unwarranted.
40. Gaziano & Girling - $$$
An English brand with decidedly very un-English styling, Gaziano & Girling has made a name for itself in the world of high-end shoemaking despite being a very young brand. Starting at a bit over $800, these shoes have all the bells and whistles you’d expect of shoes at this price point, such as pitches heels, beveled waists, and Goodyear welted construction.
You can still see a bit of the English heritage in their shoes (they are all made at their factory in England, after all), but the lasts are definitely more daring, and they’re willing to experiment far more than other English shoemakers.
41. George Cleverly - $$$
George Cleverly is a bespoke English shoemaker that also offers a fantastic selection of ready-to-wear shoes. Their shoes incorporate many of the characteristics of bespoke shoes, with sloped heels and narrow, beautifully beveled waists, which gives them much more flair and panache than your average run-of-the-mill English shoe.
Most models are priced at around $700, which is a great price considering all that you receive.
42. G.H. Bass - $
Best known for their iconic Weejuns penny loafer, G.H. Bass is a staple of the Ivy style. Though they do have several other styles on offer, such as derbies and boots, Weejuns are the primary reason most people flock to this brand. What makes them unique is that while they have a penny loafer profile, the stitching around the toe is akin to that of a moccasin, and the stitching is all done by hand. They offer a good value at under $150 for most models, especially considering that you can’t get the Weejuns profile elsewhere.
43. Gucci - $$$
Another Italian luxury brand, Gucci is an icon and a status symbol many people aspire to own. Their most recognizable and iconic shoe is probably the 1953 horsebit loafer, which does retain elements of classic styling, unlike many of their other offerings. The quality you get is decent - the shoes are blake stitched and use full grain leather - but at over $900 for most of their models, you can get much better unless that Gucci logo is all you care about.
44. Grant Stone - $$
Though they may be a fledgling brand founded in 2016, Grant Stone has garnered a reputation for providing great quality shoes at competitive prices. They’re based out of the US and manufacture in China, with the distinct rounded last shape of most American brands. Their range of styles has steadily increased since their inception, and their lineup now consists of derbies, oxfords, bluchers, loafers, boots, and more in many unique colorways and materials, such as their absolutely stunning sky blue reverse kudu.
These shoes offer a great value at their $300 - $400 price point. Though they’re assembled in China, their US team inspects and fulfills each order. The quality is also quite impressive. Their leathers are sourced from the top tanneries, the shoes are all Goodyear welted, and they don’t skimp where others might, using full-grain vegetable tanned leather for the insole, outsole, heel counter, and even the welt.
45. Greats - $$
Made famous by their sneakers, Greats is a Brooklyn-based brand established in 2014. While sneakers are the bread and butter of their operation, they’ve been steadily adding more classic shoe styles to their portfolio, which now includes chelsea and chukka boots and penny loafers in interesting and unique colorways. All their products are handmade in either Portugal or Italy, which more than justifies their $150 - $190 price point.
46. Grenson - $$$
We return to England yet again to take a look at Grenson, where British heritage is apparent in all their models. All the classics are offered here, from thick country brogues to more elegant formal oxfords. While the shoes are all Goodyear welted and made with high-quality leather, the lasts aren’t as refined as some of their competitors, like Crockett & Jones.
Ranging from $500 - $800, there’s really no reason to pick these over another similarly priced English shoe, unless you want something very specific, like their Triple Welt model.
47. Hawes & Curtis - $$
Hawes & Curtis may be based out of England, but all their shoes are made in Portugal, and you can definitely see more of the Portuguese heritage in their shoes, with a longer, pointed last than you’d typically expect to find in an English shoe. They do have a full leather lining and leather soles, but for their $220 price, I expected a Goodyear welt or at least a blake stitch. They do occasionally run 50% off sales, which is probably the only time it’s worth picking them up.
48. Heinrich Dinkelacker - $$$
Hailing from Hungary, another country with a rich shoemaking history, is Heinrich Dinkelacker, which was founded in 1879. The Austro-Hungarian style of shoes is quite distinct, characterized by short round lasts and thick soles. These shoes are perfect for those looking to add their collection and want to stray from more obvious choices, like English or Italian brands.
The craftsmanship is exceptional - each shoe is crafted and welted entirely by hand, and their leathers of choice are supple and beautiful. Though they typically retail at $700, they often run sales, making an already great value even better.
49. Herring Shoes - $$
Originally a distributor for brands like Cheaney, Church’s, and many more, Herring began offering their own line of shoes several years ago, all made either in Portugal or their factory in Northampton. For around $300 - $400, you get Goodyear welted construction, refined English lasts, and a wide variety of styles, which is great when considering that many of the comparative quality brands they distribute are significantly more expensive. Getting a made-in-England shoe of this caliber in the $300s is a bargain.
50. Hugo Boss - $$
Hugo Boss occupies this weird middle space between luxury fashion brands and mall brand shoes - some view it as high-end while others think it’s no better than Aldo or Florsheim. The price is somewhere in the middle, with most of their shoes priced between $200 and $400. Unless you can get them steeply discounted at a store like DSW, there’s really no way I recommend buying them.
Even their $400 shoes are blown out of the water by brands like Meermin and Beckett Simonon, which are half the price, and their $200 shoes use plastic in many parts of the shoe, including the insole, outsole, and heel block.
However, if you can find a pair for $100, I’d tell you to pick them over choosing a pair from a different mall brand, as their lasts are slightly more refined.
51. J. Fitzpatrick - $$
Justin Fitzpatrick began his career by shining shoes on Saville Row in England and making connections with incredible shoemakers across the globe. He eventually started his own brand, J. Fitzpatrick, which offers some of the best value shoes on the market. Starting at around $450, all their shoes are Goodyear welted with handlasted waists and stacked leather heels. There’s a huge selection of styles and colors to choose from, including the obvious oxfords, derbies, and loafers - all with a unique twist, I might add - but also unique styles you won’t find elsewhere, such as button shoes and boots and balmoral boots.
They also offer an entry-level line, JF, which starts at around $300. Though you’re sacrificing a bit on the quality, these are still fantastic Goodyear welted shoes at a much more affordable price point.
52. Jay Butler - $$
Why do many things decently when you can do one thing incredibly? That’s the ethos of Jay Butler, which only produces loafers of the penny, horsebit, and driver varieties. Their loafers perfectly encapsulate the preppy Ivy style, with their incredibly short vamps and rounded toes with moccasin-style construction. Their shoes are all made in Mexico, and for only $200, you’re getting full-grain leather, blake stitched leather outsoles, and full leather linings.
The look and material quality are roughly the same as the Gucci horsebit loafer, but at a quarter of the price. Sounds enticing, doesn’t it?
53. JM Weston - $$$
Another French brand with a much tamer style than you’d typically expect of French shoes is J.M. Weston, a company with a rich shoemaking history dating back to 1891. Their most famous styles are their 180 penny loafer and the Demi-Chasse, a split-toe derby that’s built like a tank. Though they’re not as daring or fashion-forward as, say, Corthay, their shoes exude elegance, with clean and timeless silhouettes.
In addition to the aforementioned styles, they also offer beautiful oxfords, Chelseas, and monkstraps, all made in France with the finest materials and Goodyear welted construction. Their shoes start at $800, which is a very fair price considering all you receive.
54. John Lobb - $$$$
John Lobb was founded - and still makes their shoes - in Northampton, England, but they were purchased by the Hermes group in late 70s. The shoes are, understandably, very English in their styling, with refined, classic lasts. Strangely enough, there’s nothing that sticks out as particularly incredible about John Lobb’s shoes. Yes, they are Goodyear welted, have beautiful leather, and fine details, but you’d expect that at $1800+ dollars.
There’s no beveled or fiddleback waist or sloped heel block, which much less expensive brands do offer. Though they’re still a much better value than luxury fashion brands, in the increasingly competitive world of fine men’s footwear, they don’t do much to distinguish themselves.
55. Johnston & Murphy - $
Another mall staple, Johnston & Murphy has been worn by American men for over a century and a half, though their quality has dropped considerably in the last few decades. At $100 - $150, they still offer an ok value, though with their very uninspired lasts and cemented construction, they won’t stick out or last very long.
The few pairs of Johnston & Murphy shoes I’ve owned in my life lasted for about 6-8 months of regular wear, but they’re not the worst offender as far as mall brands go.
56. Koio - $$
Koio is another brand that mainly focuses on sneakers, but that doesn’t mean you should overlook their small but great lineup of loafers, boots, and moccasins. Their boot lineup is particularly nice, with a few different styles offered, and all their shoes are made in Italy with either blake stitched or handsewn construction and priced between $225 and $375.
57. Loake - $$
Loake is another classic English shoemaker, with roots in Northampton stretching back to 1880. The full range of classic men’s shoes is on offer, with typical English lasts, starting at $300. Be aware - only the 1880 Classic and 1880 Country lines are made in England, and they retail at around $450. The rest of their shoes are made in India, which lowers the cost, but does compromise a bit on the quality of the craftsmanship.
If you’re specifically looking for a made-in-England shoe, just be conscious of which collection you’re purchasing from.
58. Louboutin - $$$$
Two words: Red bottoms. That’s likely the only reason anyone would want to buy shoes from Christian Louboutin. There’s nothing else that makes these shoes stand out from other luxury brands in this price range. Most of their shoes are priced over $1,000, and for that, you get decent leathers and either blake stitched or cemented construction. Their selection is also quite small, though they offer the classic oxfords and derbies, and I find their lasts to be a bit unrefined overall, with a rather square toe that looks like a weird mix between a round toe and a chisel toe.
59. Ludwig Reiter - $$$
Founded in 1885 in Vienna, Austria, Ludwig Reiter offers an extensive selection of classic men’s shoes, all with the traditional Austro-Hungarian last style, which is quite distinct with its heavy broguing and chunky soles. As is typical of shoes made in this region, they’re built like a tank and will last you many years with the proper care.
Of course, they’re Goodyear welted and use top-quality leather and materials, but that’s to be expected at their $700+ price point. There are some notable things missing that others in this price range offer, though, such as closed channel stitching and beveled waits.
60. Magnanni - $$
Hailing from Almansa, Spain, one of the meccas of Spanish shoemaking, is Magnanni. Their shoes are all very elegant, as one would expect of a Spanish shoe, with sleek lasts and low profiles. Many of their shoes are painted by hand, which creates an irregular look that is distinctive and beautiful. Most of their models retail between $400 and $500 and are blake stitched to ensure resoleability while remaining in line with the signature Spanish look.
61. Marc Nolan - $
Marc Nolan offers a wide range of distinctively styled and colored shoes, from baby blue suede penny loafers to full brogue wingtip derby boots. Nothing here is super classic - all their styles have a unique twist - but their lasts are quite pleasing. If you’re really looking to make a statement or ensure you’re the only one in the room with that pair of shoes, you can’t go wrong with them, especially at their sub-$150 price point.
62. Meermin - $$
Ask any shoe enthusiast about which brands offer the best value, and Meermin will likely be one of the first they name. At around $200, these shoes offer some of the best price-to-value among any brand, not just men’s shoes. They have a massive selection of Goodyear welted shoes to choose from in a huge array of styles - for only $300, you can select from their Linea Maestro line, which is fully handwelted, something you usually see in shoes double or triple this price. The company is based out of Mallorca in Spain, though all the manufacturing is done in China.
I currently own three pairs of Meermin shoes: One pair of suede chukka boots, a shearling-lined pair of cap toe derby boots, and Linea Maestro black cap toe oxfords. You can read my initial impressions of the suede chukka boots here to gain a better understanding of what makes them such a steal, and be on the lookout for full reviews of the other Meermin shoes in my collection soon!
63. Mezlan - $$
Returning to Almansa, Spain, we take a look at Mezlan, which eschews the traditions of Spanish shoemaking to produce far more daring and fashion-forward offerings. You can find everything from rainbow-pattern patinas to woven leather shoes, though they’re particularly known for their exotic materials, ranging from crocodile and lizard to even alligator. I find that their lasts aren’t quite as refined as their Spanish brethren, though they do offer styles you likely won’t see anywhere else.
The pricing is a bit high as well for the quality you receive. Most models retail at $400 - $500, but they frequently run steep discounts, which is the best time to pick them up. If you want something from the exotics collection, be prepared to shell out close to $1000 or even more.
64. Moral Code - $
Ranging from $130 - $170, Moral Code has a small selection of shoes and boots, all sold direct to consumer. They used to have a larger catalog of classic styles, but that has shrunk in favor of dress shoe/sneaker hybrids, and most of their shoes are now cemented.
They do have one Goodyear welted option available, but at $220, there are many other options on the market.
65. Morjas - $$
Yet another brand hailing from Almansa, Spain, is Morjas, a company that provides beautiful shoes and boots in the Spanish tradition of shoemaking. Their shoes are in the running for the best value on the market at only $250 - $300, with marvelously refined lasts and attention to detail that would rival brands double the price.
The selection isn’t enormous, but everything is done with intention, from the neat and uniform stitching on the uppers to the meticulously placed brass nails on the outsole.
66. New Republic - $
I was first introduced to New Republic when searching for the best minimal sneakers for men. Many reviewers lauded their shoes’ clean designs and high quality relative to their price, often choosing them as the best budget minimal sneakers. I’ve had a pair of their Kurt leather sneakers for over two years, and if they signify the quality of the rest of their lineup, then they’re a steal at under $100 for most pairs.
They don’t have the biggest selection of dress shoes, but they do have a nice array of Chelseas, driving moccasins, and loafers to choose from, with much more refined lasts than comparatively priced mall brands. They even use full-grain leather in their dress shoes, which is something you rarely see at this price point.
67. Norman Vilalta - $$$$
Trained by the late master shoemaker, Stefano Bemer, Norman Vilalta honed his craft and now offers his own line of bespoke and ready-to-wear shoes all made in Barcelona. As is often seen with bespoke shoemakers, the ready-to-wear line inherits many of the characteristics of the far more expensive bespoke offerings, such as sloped heels and beautifully beveled waists. They offer all the classic styles, but their most famous and sought-after is the Decon, a wholly original style that’s a cross between a Chelsea boot and a two-eyelet derby.
They source their leather from the top tanneries in the world, use Goodyear welted construction, and have beautifully stitched and quilted insoles. Each pair of shoes is finished by hand - even the outsoles receive a beautiful painted finish. All this goodness adds up, though. Shoes from this brand start at over $1100.
68. Oliver Cabell - $$
Primarily known as a brand offering great minimalistic sneakers, you’d be surprised to learn that Oliver Cabell offers classic dress shoe styles as well. They have a decent selection of loafers (penny, driver, and horsebit), boat shoes, mocassins, Chelseas, and derby boots, all made in factories either in Spain, Portugal, or Italy.
For $180 - $250, you’re receiving blake stitched (on their boots) or handsewn construction and fine leathers from small-batch tanneries. They even have a full pricing and construction details breakdown for each pair of shoes on their website, which is refreshing to see and great if transparency means a lot to you.
69. Paul Parkman - $$$
Visit the Paul Parkman website, and you’ll be greeted with a kaleidoscope of color. If you’re looking to make a stylistic statement and command attention when you walk into the room, these are the shoes for you. They’re based out the US but manufactured in Turkey, where each shoe is made by hand.
I only wish they had a larger selection of classic shoes to choose from, as they offer a lot of value at their $500 - $700 price point, including beveled waists, closed channel stitching, and brass nails in the toe.
70. Paolo Scafora - $$$$
Based out of Napoli, Italy, is another gem of Italian shoemaking, Paolo Scafora. Their shoes are meticulously crafted with marvelous attention to detail. In addition to the usual suspects, they offer interesting twists on the classics, like single monkstraps with apron stitching. All their shoes are finished with fiddleback waists, a technique that’s extremely difficult to execute, and use a variety of construction methods.
They’re best known for their Norweigan stitched models, which is the most durable construction method available. Shoes from this brand start at around $1200.
71. Prada - $$$$
Another luxury high-fashion brand you may be familiar with is Prada. While most of their line-up is very avant-garde, they do have a small selection of classically inspired shoes, like oxfords and derbies, and my father has owned several pairs of Prada shoes over the years and hasn’t had any major complaints.
At over $1000 per pair, though, they’re a hard sell. That price point puts you in the upper echelon of fine men’s footwear, and other brands in this range over far more refined lasts, exquisite materials, dazzling colors, and marvelous attention to detail.
However, if brand recognition is what you crave, there are few more recognizable than this one.
72. Red Wing - $$
Famous for their work boots, Red Wing also has their Heritage line, which is comprised of chukka, derby, and Chelsea boots (they also have one pair of derbies), all heavily workwear inspired. Their work boots are known for their longevity and hearty construction, and those in the Heritage line are no exception: All their models use Goodyear welted construction.
At around $300, they provide a great value, particularly for those who want to incorporate workwear-inspired pieces into their wardrobes.
73. Reiss - $$
An international fashion house founded in London, Reiss offers a small but focused collection of men’s dress shoes and boots. Their formal shoes are all made in Italy, and include a selection of oxfords, monkstraps, loafers, and boots to choose from. However, their $300+ price doesn’t really match up with the quality you receive. The shoes are cemented, and there’s no information about where they source their materials, so unless you really love the Reiss brand, there are many others at this price point that provide much more bang for your buck.
74. RM Williams - $$$
Born in Australia and best known for their hard-wearing boots is R.M. Williams, a company that focuses on crafting footwear intended for adventure. Their selection of boots is quite extensive - there’s a huge array of beautiful Chelsea boots to choose from, all with different lasts and styles, and a smaller but equally impressive array of derby boots.
All their models are made in Australia, with fine leather selections and Goodyear welted construction and will set you back $540 - $800+, depending on your leather choice.
75. Saint Crispin’s - $$$$
Named for the patron saint of shoemaking, Saint Crispin’s is a brand based out of Romania and has an approximate output of only 1500 pairs of shoes per year, as each pair is made entirely by hand. The craftsmanship is evident in every facet of the shoe, from the beautifully sloped heels to the skillfully beveled waists - the process is lengthy, but the end result is simply breathtaking.
They offer a wide selection of models with unique colors and patterns, all handwelted. The price is quite steep - $1300 - $1500 - but the quality is well worth it. Each pair of shoes also comes with their famous hollow shoe trees, which are pieces of art within themselves.
76. Saint Laurent - $$$$
A luxury, fashion-forward brand that many people swear by is Saint Laurent, the luxury fashion arm of Yves Saint Laurent. These shoes could not be more of a polar opposite from the other “Saint” on our list - their shoes are extremely avant-garde, with sky-high heels and super pointy lasts.
They are blake stitched, but unless you really want the Saint Laurent silhouette, their $1200+ price tag is difficult to swallow.
77. Santoni - $$$$
Santoni is a bit of an enigma. They’re based out of and manufactured in Italy, but their push into high-end department stores has led them to jack up prices and get a bit crazier with their designs while not focusing as much on their quality. Yes, many of their offerings are blake stitched or Goodyear welted, but the lasts are not quite as refined as many of their Italian competitors. At $1000 or more for the average pair of shoes, it’s best to wait until they go on sale before purchasing them.
78. Scarosso - $$
Scarosso is a wonderful boutique brand based out of Italy, where all their shoes are manufactured, and offers a large selection priced between $300 and $400. I find their lasts particularly attractive, some of the best in this range, and their shoes are either blake or blake rapid stitched and come with stacked leather heel blocks, which is where some of their competitors cut corners.
One drawback I’ve noticed is that their prices have been steadily climbing higher - a pair of Scarosso Chelsea boots cost $265 in 2022 but are close to $400 today. While the price is still reasonable - inflation is rampant, after all - most of their competitors have not seen such steep price increases.
79. Sebago - $
Best known for their Docksides boat shoes, Sebago was founded in Portland, Maine, in 1946. Though their specialty is with boat shoes, they also offer a collection of loafers, mocassins, and boots, all with classic Ivy styling and handsewn construction. I’ve owned a pair of their iconic Docksides, but I didn’t find that the quality matched up to the OG boat shoe, the Sperry Topsiders. Nevertheless, they’re still an icon and are made with good quality materials.
Though they’re usually listed on their site at $200, there are many outlets where you can find them at around $100, which is just the right price to pay for them.
80. Septieme Largeur - $$
Translating to “seventh lengths” in English, Septieme Largeur is a French brand that has made the incredibly elegant and distinct French style attainable for the masses. The craftsmanship on display is superb and undeniable, with skillfully beveled waists, closed channel stitching, and brass nails in the heel and toe, all Goodyear welted.
The full array of classic styles is on offer, with many variations of oxfords, derbies, monkstraps, loafers, boots, and more. For those who are really daring, they offer a “Patina Studio” program, where you can select any of their styles and receive a handpainted patina finish on your shoes, with colors ranging from rich hues of blue and green to red and even purple.
At around $300 for their classic collection and $380 for their patina options, there are few that can match the quality at their given price.
81. Shoe Passion - $$
A conglomeration of three separate brands, Henry Stevens, N91, and Heinrich Dinkelacker (which we covered earlier), Shoe Passion offers a huge selection of classic men’s shoes and boots with rugged German styling. They used to be the place to go for more unique styles, like white buckskin shoes and green suede brogues, but since their merger with Heinrich Dinkelacker and absorbing the other aforementioned brands, their offerings have become a bit tamer.
These shoes still provide a good value - their Henry Stevens retail for $300 - $400 and feature Goodyear welted construction, refined lasts, and carefully selected materials - but it feels as though some of the magic has been lost.
82. Sperry - $
The progenitor of the wildly popular boat shoe, Sperry is a brand with a rich history spanning decades. In addition to their iconic Topsiders (now renamed the Authentic Original Boat Shoe), they also have loafers, driving moccasins, and boots to choose from, though their boat shoes remain their bread and butter. Most of their models are priced at or slightly above $100, which is a bargain if you want to capture a slice of Americana.
I’ve had a pair of Sperry Gold Cup Topsiders for nearly two years and have nothing but good things to say. Look out for a full review!
83. Spier and Mackay - $$
Spier & Mackay is my go-to men’s clothing brand - the value they offer is unmatched, and their selection is enormous. They started offering shoes a few years ago, and while there aren’t a ton of options to choose from yet - their collection is currently limited to oxfords, monkstraps, and derby boots - they have been adding more styles each year.
For $180, you get full-grain leather, either blake stitch or Goodyear welted construction, and very elegant lasts. These shoes are only a hair more expensive than most mall brands, while the quality you receive is ahead by leaps and bounds. It’s really a no-brainer if you need to spend less than $200.
84. Stefano Bemer - $$$$
The late master shoemaker for which this brand is named may be one of the most influential shoemakers of the modern era, not only for the iconic and breathtaking styles he created but for the countless other artisans he trained. Though he passed away at the young age of 48, Stefano Bemer’s legacy is carried on by his legendary Italian atelier.
They offer three collections: Essenziale, which retails at $1000; Classica at $1400 - $1800; and Tradizione, their highest-end ready-to-wear line, which starts at over $2000.
No matter which of their lines you go with, you can rest assured that your money is being well spent. The last designs are spectacular, the attention to detail and craftsmanship are mind-blowing, and, depending on the line, you receive either Goodyear or fully handwelted construction.
85. Suitsupply - $$
When you first hear the name “Suitsupply,” I’m sure shoes aren’t the first thing that come to mind. While they have built a reputation for offering great quality suits at affordable prices, Suitsupply also offers a full range of classic men’s shoes, and their ethos of offering great quality for the price continues here as well.
Boots, loafers, oxfords, derbies, and monkstraps are available, all blake stitched with clean, elongated lasts and made with Italian leather. For $250, you can’t go wrong.
86. T. Shirakashi - $$$$
No top 100 list would be complete without at least one Japanese shoemaker (though we’ll feature another one shortly). The bespoke shoemaking industry has exploded in Japan in recent years, with many Japanese shoemakers entering the upper echelons of this treasured craft, and Tetsuya Shirakashi is one of those masters.
Though he focuses mainly on bespoke, he does have a small selection of ready-to-wear models, all crafted to the incredibly high standards he has for his bespoke shoes. Beveled, hand lasted waists and sloped heels, trademarks of bespoke shoes, are on display, all handwelted. The last is most similar to the English, with its more conservative style and rounded toes, but it’s refined to an entirely new level.
All this comes at a price - his ready-to-wear shoes retail for over $1800.
87. Taft - $$
A darling in the industry for their whimsical patterns and designs, Taft may stray from the conventional, but they don’t sacrifice on quality. All their shoes and boots are made in Spain with either Goodyear welted or blake stitched construction, fully leather lined with stacked leather heels.
I wish they had a larger selection of classic colors and styles, but they’ve clearly found their niche for those looking for creative patterns in their shoes. They retail at $275 - $325, which is quite competitive for the quality you receive.
88. Tecovas - $$
The American West is the inspiration for Tecovas, which features a lineup of workwear-inspired boots. They offer cowboy boots, roper boots, Chelseas, and more, all made in Leon, Mexico. Though they’re not for everyone, they’re perfect for those who want to incorporate Western wear into their wardrobe.
For around $275, you’re receiving Goodyear welted construction, good leathers, and either leather or Vibram outsoles.
89. Ted Baker - $
Ted Baker is your typical department store brand, but they offer a bit more panache than others in this category, with styles like full brogue suede oxfords and brogue derby boots. The materials used aren’t the best, with cemented construction, corrected (i.e., painted over to cover flaws and imperfections) leather, and cheap soles, but that’s what you expect at this price point.
Though they’re listed on their site at around $200, you can find them at many stores under $100. If you want to emulate the style of higher-end shoes without breaking the bank, they have something for you.
90. Thom Browne - $$$$
Founded in 2003 and purchased by the Zegna Group in 2018, Thom Browne gained notoriety for his take on the classic menswear uniform. Shortly after their founding, they began offering footwear as well, featuring a mix of classic and fashion-forward styles. Their entry-level shoes are made in Italy and are cemented, but they also have a made-in-England line, which used to be made by Trickers and now by Sanders, which is Goodyear welted.
All their shoes are characterized by the three-striped Thom Browne pull tab on the back of the shoe. Their most famous styles are thick and chunky full brogue derbies, but they retail for over $1000. Unless you really want the Thom Browne logo, there are other brands on this list that offer nearly the exact same style but at half the price.
91. Thursday Boot Co. - $$
With Goodyear welted boots starting at $150 (yes, you read that right), Thursday Boot Co. lives up to its mission of delivering quality footwear at extremely competitive price points. As the name would suggest, boots are their specialty, with a large selection of derby boots, chukkas, Chelseas, and more. They also offer classic shoe styles like oxfords, derbies, monkstraps, and loafers, all Goodyear welted as well with full-grain leather.
Their lasts aren’t super refined, but they’re better than any mall brand, and the quality is certainly ahead by leaps and bounds. Most of their offerings are made in either Spain, Portugal, or Mexico, with a made-in-America line starting at $265, which is, once again, very competitive.
92. TLB Mallorca - $$
As their name would suggest, TLB Mallorca is based out of and makes their shoes in Mallorca, Spain. This is another fantastic brand that offers some serious quality for its price. Their lasts are traditionally Spanish, with refined and chiseled features, and all their offerings are Goodyear welted. They offer a wide selection of loafers, derbies, oxfords, and more, with leathers sourced from Annonay and suede from Charles F. Stead, some of the best in the industry. Each pair of shoes has closed channel stitching, and their Artista collection, which is only $50 more than the rest of their $350 offerings, features beautifully beveled waists.
Though they're a relatively young brand, founded in 2018, this is sure to be a name you'll hear more of.
93. Tod's - $$$
Based in Italy and best known for its driving shoes in fun colors, Tod’s has firmly cemented its place as another luxury brand. In addition to the drivers, they also offer derby and chukka boots, as well as loafers and a small selection of oxfords and derbies. Though the leather quality is quite nice and the shoes are all made in Italy, Tod’s is definitely priced like a luxury brand, with most shoes starting over $600.
Once again, it’s a question of whether the brand name means something to you to decide if it’s worth it.
94. Tricker’s - $$$
Founded in 1829 in Northampton, England, where they still make their shoes in the original factory, Tricker’s exemplifies the English country style of shoemaking. Their shoes and boots are basically indestructible, with triple leather Goodyear welted soles, metal-reinforced eyelets, and thick and chunky lasts. These are probably not shoes you would wear with a worsted wool suit, but they’re perfectly suited for any outdoor activity and go particularly well with hearty fabrics like tweed, corduroy, and denim.
Though they’re certainly not cheap at $550+, buy one pair of Tricker’s, and they should last you a lifetime.
95. Vass - $$
In the $400 - $500 range, it’s difficult to get better quality than you receive from Vass. Founded in 1978 in Budapest, Hungary, Vass consistently sets the bar for the best value shoes in their price bracket. There’s a huge selection of oxfords, derbies, monkstraps, boots, and more to choose from, all with elegant and refined lasts, beautiful heels, and industry-leading leather.
The real kicker is that all these shoes are handwelted, a hallmark of much more expensive brands. Buy a pair of Vass shoes, and you’ll question whether you should ever purchase from a different brand again.
96. Velasca - $$
Our last foray into Italy brings us to Velasca, another direct-to-consumer brand that has opened in the last decade. Most of their shoes are either blake or blake rapid stitched (they do have a small Goodyear welted collection that retails at $420) with good-quality leather and a range of styles, from classic oxfords to country full brogue derbies. The last style is a bit chunkier than the typical Italian last, but that’s not to say it’s clunky or ugly - their shoes have a unique charm.
At $300 - $350 and made in Italy, they provide good value and have every classic style you could want.
97. Wilcox - $$
Based in the US and focusing exclusively on boots, Wilcox provides a mix of classic styles with some unusual combinations not usually seen, such as derby boots with sneaker-style outsoles. However, this is definitely not fast fashion. All their styles are fully Goodyear welted and use full-grain leather, which is quite impressive given their $250 price point.
One of my co-workers has had Wilcox boots for over four years and wears the hell out of them, but they still look fantastic, which is a testament to their quality.
98. Wolf and Sheperd - $$
Yet another entry in the ever-growing sea of dress shoe/sneaker hybrids is Wolf and Sheperd, a US-based brand manufactured in Portugal. While these shoes never seem to perform the duties as well as a dedicated dress shoe or sneaker, they do provide an alternative for those who need to be on their feet all day while remaining presentable, such as doctors, flight attendants, or anyone that works in a more casual environment.
Their entry-level models aren’t priced terribly at $150, but their higher-end offerings at almost $300 leave much to be desired.
99. Yohei Fukuda - $$$$
Yohei Fukuda is another example of the exemplary shoe market that is burgeoning in Japan. A bespoke shoemaker by trade, trained in Northampton, a pair of his bespoke shoes will set you back at least $4000 - $5000 and take a year and a half from inception to the final product being ready.
For those who don’t want to wait that long or spend that much, he offers a small line of ready-to-wear shoes. They’re all oxfords, ranging from a cap toe to a full brogue wingtip, each made with the same level of detail and craftsmanship as the bespoke shoes. They’re a marvel to behold, a genuine example of shoemaking at the highest level. Of course, they’re all handlasted and handwelted, with beautiful sloped heels, beveled waists, and metal toe caps.
At $1800, they’re among the most expensive on this list, but those who purchase them enter a whole new sphere of men’s footwear.
100. Zonkey Boot - $$$
Don’t let the funny name turn you off - Zonkey Boot is a genuinely impressive brand that offers some serious quality footwear. They’re based out of Vienna, Austria, but the last is more elongated than the typical Austro-Hungarian style. Based on their name, you’d expect them to have boots, and they deliver, with a wide range of derby boots, Chelseas, and chukkas to more unusual models like Balmoral and even wholecut boots, which are very difficult to produce.
Their shoe selection is also impressive, with oxfords, derbies, loafers, and more. Most of their offerings are fully handwelted, which is still not something you often see even at their $800 - $1000 price range, which makes them a serious competitor.
Conclusion and Last Thoughts
While I’ve tried to be as thorough as possible, no list can be fully comprehensive. If there’s a notable brand that you believe should have been included, please feel free to drop a comment below! (Who knows, they might even be included in next year’s list.) Additionally, if you have any questions about a particular brand or want to learn more about the different construction methods or shoe styles, I’d be glad to help with those as well.
The comments are an open invitation to all those who want to participate and learn, and I welcome your feedback!
